Sunday, January 27, 2008

Ruminations

The dreary weather continued for the next day, which in turn caused me to wonder whether I have some unwanted affinity towards unnatural weather conditions (my previous trip was characterized by a lack of precipitation during what is normally the rainy season). That afternoon, my siesta subsequently turned into a full-fledged sleep, which coincided with night time in the States. Still, I happily returned to bed, under a cotton-filled down comforter, and found myself asleep in no time. The following day, I forayed into the city with my grandmother, and it is from this experience that I noted the following:

I miss:
.controlled traffic
.proper (dry) bathrooms
.driving
.my family
.my puppy
.television
.the Internet

Memorable experiences of the day:
.Mosquitoes: It seems these extremely annoying insects whose place in the food chain of living creatures I'll never quite understand are prevalent at all times here. On my second day, I awoke to find evidence of their annoyances on the only exposed areas of my body: my face and hands, a lovely discovery, as these are perhaps the first two places that people place their eyes upon.

.Traffic: My immediate thought upon boarding a bus dealt with discerning how the vehicles are able to cooperate amongst all the chaos. With no clear lane demarcation, the roads are a melee of cars, buses, auto-rickshaws, rickshaws, bicyclists, and pedestrians. Blinkers are carelessly abandoned and adopted instead are the cacophonous horns that blare from every vehicle, regardless of whether there are any obstacles present in their way. Brakes are employed at, what seems to me, the very last moment, forcing the gaps between vehicles to be a mere inches. At several points during my daily outings, I am sure I could have shaken the hands of passengers in neighboring vehicles. Coupled with pedestrians who stroll into the middle of traffic (which seems to be the norm, as well as something I have been guilty of), this erratic, uncontrolled system should, under all laws of logic, fail; but somehow, it succeeds. I hardly doubt that even congested, bustling cities like New York could hold a candle to the frenzy I've witnessed on a daily basis. Let alone that were I even able to, I doubt very much that I'd drive here.

.Cell phones: A very amazing phenomenon presented itself to me in my daily outings: the prevalency of cell phones throughout the city, across all economic levels. It seems the latter are no obstacle in owning this rather convenient device, as I have seen so many individuals with one attached to their ears (even a rickshaw driver, who likely makes the equivalent of a meager $5 daily). Even half-way around the world, some things truly never change!

.Poverty: Riding through the streets of the city provide for a view of the everyday lives of its people. The stark reality of the extreme levels of poverty becomes very apparent through every part of the city; even outside one of the poshest new city malls, beggars sit, hoping for spare change, while food vendors serve their creations to the city's wealthier citizens. Tattered clothes, homes in shambles, barely a shoe on every foot, these individuals are on the streets each day, attempting to earn a living. Whether it's selling food in baskets atop their heads or in street stalls, cleaning and polishing shoes of the passersby on the sidewalks, or working in the homes of the more fortunate, I've found these individuals in possession of an amazing resilience and desire to live their lives as best as they can.
Of course the truly destitute exist, and these individuals rely on others' mercy, begging for just a few rupees. Walking through the streets of one of Kolkata's oldest markets, I came upon a woman who, dressed in a tattered and stained white sari, one end of which she draped over her head, walked around with her arm outstretched. Most everyone ignored her silent please, though a few did meet her appeals. They were rewarded perhaps with personal satisfaction and a gracious nod from the silent woman. Her plight is a common one, not only in Kolkata, but throughout the country of India. I often find myself wondering what deep sin each committed to warrant such a meager existence.

.Stray animals: The neighborhoods of Kolkata are littered with litters of cats and dogs at every turn. To an animal lover, it is especially disheartening to see them in their squalid existences, roaming the streets, in search of scraps of food and companionship, no doubt. On several occasions, I was amazed to see dogs spread across sidewalks, with the bustling world around them, their oblivious nature apparent in their unflinching slumber. Cats roam the streets in equal numbers, though they seem to be more elusive to the eye. Their tales provide a similarly different perspective of the lives of the poor in this country - they cannot find good homes, when their potential owners are forced to live in single-story, one-to-two bedroom brick and mud bungalows, with sheets and tarps for windows. Though sympathetic to their plight, I found myself torn in dividing my sympathies, as it became quite difficult to feel pity for these creatures when men with appendages for limbs sat on the sidewalks of markets asking for spare change, when children tugged on our clothes and pointed to food at a nearby stall, and when women roamed with arms outstretched, all hoping to sustain their lives for one more day.

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